For the first time, a majority of Okinawans want the American military presence to leave their prefecture based on recent polling.
There are 32 separate air bases currently operating, with 70% of all land assigned to airbases in Japan in Okinawa. 25% of the island, is American. Beyond this, you see an entitlement from the loudest members of the military. On busy tourist streets, the only raised voices you hear are those of the American military in bars. I saw a man tell an American he couldn’t cut a piece of rope and keep it as a souvenir. The American took a knife out of his pocket, cut the rope and put it in his pocket without saying anything. When you are in some of the most beautiful, and remote spots in Okinawa, roars thunder through the sky as fighter jets zoom overhead. This happens daily, so much so that a Japanese rest stop has a viewing platform for watching the American military take off. The Naha airport, for tourists, also launches various fighter jets, Chinooks and transport flights. In one section of the Yanbaru National Park, a beach is sectioned off for military use only.
When I’ve spoken to members of the military in Okinawa, they are always grateful to be in Japan. They love the food, the weather, and the right to live there. They recognise the necessity to have bases in this part of the world, and how wasted some of their energy is being in proximity to China. A few American universities, have a campus in Okinawa and offer discounted fees to local Okinawans. I recently attended a graduation ceremony and can say out of the 400 graduates only two looked visually Japanese or had Japanese names.
When I asked locals what they thought of the Americans, they were disgusted. It seems they have all experienced at least one annoying encounter with Americans. In some cases, Americans who have committed crimes, have made it back on to base where the Japanese government can do nothing. The loud and individualistic nature of being American comes in stark contrast to the quiet life of being Japanese and the quieter life of being Okinawan.
It’s strange to be in a place so recently occupied. The Ryukyu Kingdom, then a Chinese tribute, then a Japanese one, then briefly American, before again becoming Japanese. Now they are arguably part Japanese, part Okinawan. Most of this all changed in the last 200 years. I asked how my Okinawan friends considered themselves. Would they be upset to be considered Japanese? They said they don’t care if they were called Okinawan or Japanese, both are true and this is said with some pride and obviousness. I asked if they would rather be referred to as Ryukyu and they said no. These are just the opinions of a few, progressive and younger people mind you.
With American presence, comes American food. Okinawa was already a place focused on food, with a love of pork. As with most of Japan, American post-war rationing created many of the loved dishes. SPAM is a staple now, with most tourist shops selling SPAM keyrings, t-shirts and shoes.
My favorite dish, worldwide, was created just outside an American military base in Kin. Taco Rice. What’s more American, than some Mexican food? What’s more Okinawan, than some Japanese rice? I told a taxi driver that I would be making the pilgrimage to Kin to try taco rice from the supposed originator. He told me he loves taco rice, but would never order it from a restaurant. Taco rice is a dish Okinawans make at home. In supermarkets, you can buy taco rice kits, with the meat sauce pre-made. It’s at home, where they make the dish their own, the way they like it. A little bit of America, a little bit of Japan, but all Okinawan.
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